The Portuguese Cut: A Kaleidoscope of Brilliance
The Portuguese cut features a unique faceting pattern that creates a mesmerizing, flower-like brilliance. Learn about this rare diamond cut.
Our team of certified gemologists and jewelry experts provides in-depth analysis to help you make informed purchasing decisions.
If standard brilliant cuts feel too ordinary, the Portuguese cut is a mesmerizing alternative. Known for its incredible number of facets and "flower" pattern, it turns any gemstone into a disco ball of light.
What is a Portuguese Cut?
The Portuguese cut is a deep, fancy cut distinguished by its high facet count. A standard round brilliant diamond has 57 or 58 facets. A Portuguese cut typically has 161 facets (though this can vary).
These extra facets are arranged in rows around the pavilion (bottom) and crown (top) of the stone. When you look through the table (top), the result is a complex, checkered, or floral pattern that sparkles from every angle. It creates more scintillation (sparkle) rather than big flashes of fire.
Best Stones for Portuguese Cuts
While you can find Portuguese cut diamonds, this cut is much more common in colored gemstones.
- Sapphires & Rubies: The deep pavilion helps hold color in the stone, making lighter gems look more saturated.
- Tourmaline & Spinel: Since these stones come in large rough crystals, cutters often use the Portuguese cut to maximize weight and brilliance without a large window (a see-through area in the center).
- Diamonds: It effectively hides inclusions due to the sheer number of reflections, but it requires a very deep rough diamond, which is expensive.
Pros & Cons
Pros
- Unmatched sparkle and scintillation
- Hides inclusions well
- Unique floral pattern stands out
Cons
- Requires a very deep setting (sits high on the finger)
- Smaller face-up size for the carat weight (because it's so deep)
- Hard to find in commercial jewelry stores
Written by the TheCaratCut Editorial Team. Our recommendations follow our editorial policy. We may earn commissions through affiliate links — see our disclosure.