Dutch Marquise Ring: The Rare Antique Cut

If you’ve been scrolling through vintage jewelry feeds or exploring the world of antique diamonds, you might have stumbled upon a stone that looks like a marquise but glows with a soft, candlelight shimmer instead of a blinding sparkle. This is the Dutch Marquise, a rare and captivating cut that offers a completely different aesthetic from the modern brilliant diamonds we see today.

While the classic marquise cut is known for its sharp points and intense fire, the dutch marquise cut diamond ring is a relic of a different era—a time when diamonds were cut by hand to maximize carat weight rather than light return.

For those seeking an antique marquise ring that feels romantic, understated, and historically significant, the Dutch Marquise is a hidden gem. But how does it actually compare to the modern standard? Let's explore the unique history, facet patterns, and the key differences in the marquise diamond vs dutch marquise debate.

The History and Unique Facet Pattern

To understand the Dutch Marquise, we have to look back to the 17th and 18th centuries. Before the invention of electricity and precision cutting technology, diamond cutters used the "Rose Cut" technique. The goal was simple: keep as much of the original rough diamond as possible.

The Dutch Marquise is essentially a variation of the Rose Cut, specifically shaped into a marquise (or "navette," meaning "little boat") outline.

The "Dome" Architecture

Unlike modern cuts which are designed like icebergs (with a deep pavilion or bottom to reflect light), the Dutch Marquise is cut like a dome.

• The Bottom (Base): Completely flat.
• The Top (Crown): Domed with triangular facets that meet at a center peak.

Typically featuring 24 facets, the Dutch Marquise does not refract light internally like a modern brilliant cut. Instead, light passes through the stone, hits the wearer’s skin (or the metal backing of the setting), and reflects back with a soft, watery glow. This phenomenon is often described as "limpid" or "glassy," reminiscent of a pool of water rather than a disco ball.

This unique structure means a Dutch Marquise sits incredibly low on the finger—often flush with the skin—making it one of the most practical and snag-resistant cuts for an engagement ring.

Dutch Marquise vs Standard Marquise: The Comparison

When you place a Dutch marquise cut diamond ring next to a modern Marquise Brilliant, the differences are striking. One is not necessarily better than the other; they simply serve different aesthetic purposes.

Dutch Marquise vs. Moval Cut: What's the Difference?

Another term you might encounter while hunting for an antique marquise ring is the "Moval." The Moval is a hybrid shape—a cross between a Marquise and an Oval.

While a Dutch Marquise is defined by its cutting style (flat bottom, domed top), a Moval is defined by its outline (softer, rounded tips instead of sharp points). You can find Moval diamonds that are cut as brilliants (sparkly) or as rose cuts (glowy).

If you love the elongated look of a marquise but hate how the sharp points can snag on clothing, a Rose Cut Moval is often the perfect alternative to a Dutch Marquise. They share the same antique charm but with a slightly softer, more organic silhouette.

Pros and Cons of a Dutch Marquise Ring

Is this rare antique cut right for you? It depends entirely on whether you value vintage charm over modern bling.

The Pros

• Massive Finger Coverage: Because they are flat, Dutch Marquise diamonds carry all their weight on the surface. A 1-carat Dutch Marquise will look significantly larger than a 1-carat modern Marquise.
• Low Profile Practicality: If you are a doctor, artist, or someone who works with their hands, this is arguably the best diamond shape. It won't catch on gloves or sweaters.
• Unique Aesthetic: It doesn't look like everyone else's ring. It has a moody, romantic character that fits perfectly with Art Deco or Georgian-style settings.

The Cons

• Identifying Inclusions: The "watery" transparency of the stone means there is nowhere for flaws to hide. You need a higher clarity grade (VS2+) to ensure the stone looks clean.
• Lack of Sparkle: If you want your ring to blindingly sparkle from across the room, this is not the cut for you. It glows rather than sparkles.
• "Windowing": Because they are transparent, you can sometimes see the setting or your own skin through the stone. Some people love this transparent look; others find it distracting.

Where to Find Antique Dutch Marquise Cuts

Finding a genuine antique marquise ring with a Dutch cut is a treasure hunt. These stones are not mass-produced, and most available today are recycled from jewelry that is over 100 years old.

1. Estate Jewelers: Specialized dealers like Estate Diamond Jewelry, EraGem, or Doyle & Doyle are the best places to start. They curate high-quality antique pieces and verify the authenticity of the era.
2. Specialized Antique Cutters: Some modern lapidaries (gem cutters) are reviving the Dutch Marquise style using modern rough diamonds. If you can't find an antique original, you can commission a cutter to facet a new diamond in the old style.
3. Auctions: Heritage auctions at places like Sotheby’s or Christie’s often feature period jewelry where these cuts appear.

Buyer's Tip: When shopping for a Dutch Marquise, pay close attention to the condition of the girdle (edge). Because these stones are thin at the edges, antique versions often have small chips or "fleabites" from decades of wear.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is a Dutch Marquise the same as a Marquise Cut?

No. A standard Marquise Cut is a "Brilliant" cut with a pointed back (pavilion) designed for maximum sparkle. A Dutch Marquise is a "Rose Cut" variation with a flat back and a domed top, designed for a softer, glowing appearance.

Do Dutch Marquise diamonds sparkle?

They do sparkle, but not in the way modern diamonds do. Instead of the sharp, splintered light of a brilliant cut, they reflect broader, softer flashes of light. The effect is often described as "candlelight" rather than "disco ball."

Are Dutch Marquise rings expensive?

It varies. Because they are rarer, exact matches for side stones or specific sizes can command a premium. However, because their color and clarity demands are different (warmer colors are often preferred in antiques), you can sometimes find good value compared to high-spec modern diamonds.

Can I get a lab-grown Dutch Marquise?

Yes, but they are niche. While most lab-grown diamonds are cut into modern shapes to maximize profit, some custom cutters and specialized retailers are now producing lab-grown diamonds in antique cuts, including the Dutch Marquise.

Does a Dutch Marquise look bigger than a regular diamond?

Yes. Because the stone is flat, it has a larger surface area (spread) for the same carat weight. A 1.00-carat Dutch Marquise will appear physically larger on the finger than a 1.00-carat modern Marquise brilliant.

Are Dutch Marquise diamonds durable for daily wear?

Generally, yes. Diamonds are the hardest material on Earth, so they resist scratching very well. However, because Dutch Marquise cuts have thin edges (the girdle) and sharp points, they can be prone to chipping if hit hard against a surface. A bezel setting is highly recommended to protect the vulnerable edges of this unique cut.

How do I clean a Dutch Marquise ring?

Cleaning is simpler than with brilliant cuts because there is no deep pavilion for dirt to get trapped in. However, the flat back sits directly against your skin, meaning oils and lotions can cloud the stone quickly. A simple soak in warm water with mild dish soap and a gentle scrub with a soft toothbrush will restore its glow instantly. Avoid ultrasonic cleaners if your ring is a genuine antique, as the vibrations can loosen old settings.